Blog – Foam it Green DIY Spray Foam Insulation Kits with 17 Free Extras Easy to Use Professional Spray Foam Insulation Kits 2018-05-14T19:32:21Z https://sprayfoamkit.com/feed/atom/ WordPress https://sprayfoamkit.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/cropped-GET-logo-32x32.png Janelle Munns <![CDATA[Debunking Spray Foam Myths]]> https://sprayfoamkit.com/?p=16284 2018-03-20T17:05:12Z 2018-03-20T17:05:12Z There are a lot of myths out there about spray foam insulation. Here are your 5 top questions asked of Foam it Green answered: 1) I heard a house needs to breathe- wouldn’t a tight air seal prevent that? Answer: Fiberglass needs airflow to dry out. If you seal and insulate properly, your fiberglass won’t […]

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There are a lot of myths out there about spray foam insulation. Here are your 5 top questions asked of Foam it Green answered:

1) I heard a house needs to breathe- wouldn’t a tight air seal prevent that?

Answer: Fiberglass needs airflow to dry out. If you seal and insulate properly, your fiberglass won’t get wet and won’t need airflow to dry out. In that way, spray foam helps your fiberglass last longer. Doing it properly simply means 2 inches of closed cell foam in a 2×4 or 2×6 wall before adding fiberglass.

2) Should I be concerned about putting chemicals in my wall?

Answer: You have chemicals inside your room and even on your person. You already sleep on a foam mattress or mattress pad, you sit on foam-padded chairs, you have foam-padded carpeting, and your gym shoes are polyurethane. What’s in your walls, if you go with Foam it Green, is fire retardant, mold resistant, and safe for use in your home.

3) Why do people say to use open cell foam under a roof?

Answer: Because the company that for a long time only made and sold open cell marketed it that way. They claimed you’d be able to see roof leaks. The problem is, open cell foam is like a sponge, so by the time you see the leak, the entirety of the insulation is likely already saturated. Closed cell foam will hold the leak back if one were to start after the foam is applied and will add some structural support.

4) Is foam dangerous if it burns?

Answer: The smoke inhaled from burning foam insulation is as bad as inhaling smoke from any other burning object. Avoid it. If there is a fire inside the foam, get out of the home. Everything that is inside the living space will burn before anything behind the 15 minute fire barrier sheetrock. That 15 minutes is designed to give you time to get out of the house before the structure starts to burn.

5) Is your foam Soy-Based?

Answer: No polyurethane foam is “soy-based” or “bio-based” – they are all petroleum based. Any company claiming soy or bio based is in violation of the FTC for false advertising. 33% of the B component (polyol) is sucrose from either corn or soybeans. Since there are two components, that’s only 16.5% of the entire foam. Foam it Green is a green insulation because it provides a lasting air tight seal and high R-value, providing dramatic savings on energy bills and big increases to comfort by removing drafts.

Got a question that’s not answered here? Email it to us at help@guardianenergytech.com or call our friendly US based team at 800-516-0949

Don’t let myths hold you back from getting the best insulation your house can have. Buy your kits now and get FREE Shipping and 17 Extra Accessories!

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Janelle Munns <![CDATA[7 Easy but Vital Fall Home Maintenance Tasks]]> https://sprayfoamkit.com/?p=13458 2017-10-23T21:18:23Z 2017-10-22T20:43:32Z It’s that time of year to clean out gutters and winterize the sprinkler system.  But there are tasks to do inside, too, to keep the house in tip top shape over the Winter. Change the furnace filter. Avoid problems with a forced-air heating and cooling system by replacing the filter.  This is easy, fast, and will save on […]

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It’s that time of year to clean out gutters and winterize the sprinkler system.  But there are tasks to do inside, too, to keep the house in tip top shape over the Winter.

  1. Change the furnace filter.
    Avoid problems with a forced-air heating and cooling system by replacing the filter.  This is easy, fast, and will save on Winter heating costs.
  2. Test the sump pump.
    To avoid a flooded basement, be sure your pump has a vertical float switch. Also, check your pump by dumping water into the basin to make sure everything is working properly.
  3. Clean window weep holes.
    Many sliding windows and vinyl windows have weep holes on the exterior bottom of the frame. These holes drain away rainwater. They can get plugged with bugs and debris, and if that happens, water could fill up the channel and spill over into your walls.
    Spray the outside of the window with a garden hose. If you don’t see a steady stream of clean water exiting the weep hole, poke a wire hanger into the hole, or blast it out with compressed air.  Repeat until the water runs clear.
  4. Clean refrigerator coils.
    Refrigerator condenser coils are located on the back of the fridge or across the bottom. When coils are clogged with dust, pet hair and cobwebs, they can’t efficiently release heat. This makes your compressor work harder and longer, using more energy and shortening the life of your fridge. Clean the coils with a coil-cleaning brush or vacuum.
  5. Clean out window wells.
    If water builds up, it can break the window and flood your basement.  Keep window wells clean with a cover you can buy at home improvement stores.
  6. Drain sediment from water heater.
    Sediment collects at the bottom of the tank. This creates hot spots on gas-powered heaters that can damage the tank and cause premature failure. On an electric water heater, sediment buildup can cause the lower heating element to fail. To avoid this, occasionally drain it to lower energy bills and extend its life.
  7. Check for mice nests.
    Inspect crawlspaces and the attic. Seal any cracks and holes. If you currently have fiberglass or cellulose as insulation, check to make sure it isn’t being used as nesting material.
    If the current insulation is dirty, wet, or infested, remove it.  Here at Foam it Green, we of course recommend sealing the cracks and holes, and replacing old insulation with the tight air seal insulation of spray foam – which is not used as a nesting material for mice.
    If you have any questions about your insulating project, please feel free to call us toll free at 800-516-0949.  We’re happy to help!

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Janelle Munns <![CDATA[Rebuilding After a Hurricane]]> https://sprayfoamkit.com/?p=12819 2017-09-24T23:41:20Z 2017-09-24T23:41:20Z September has been a difficult for many homeowners in the South East. It has been estimated that rebuilding from Hurricanes Harvey and Irma will be upwards of $200 Billion. Our hearts go out to the tens of millions affected as they return home and start the cleanup process. After cleanup comes repairing or rebuilding. Re-insulating […]

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September has been a difficult for many homeowners in the South East. It has been estimated that rebuilding from Hurricanes Harvey and Irma will be upwards of $200 Billion. Our hearts go out to the tens of millions affected as they return home and start the cleanup process.

After cleanup comes repairing or rebuilding. Re-insulating will be a part of this – but don’t just put back in batt insulation. This time, prepare for a better future. Insulations like fiberglass, rockwool, and cellulous do nothing against high winds and flooding. In a hurricane, they do nothing to stop moisture penetration. Actually worse, they ABSORB that large addition of moisture and hold onto it. This easily creates future mold issues. And, once that insulation is soaked, it loses it’s insulating value.

Using closed cell spray foam insulation like Foam it Green helps you better control moisture movement in all the areas of your home. Because it expands into all the cracks, gaps and crevices, it provides a tight air seal.

It’s important to use closed cell foam versus open cell foam because open cell foam is spongey, which allows it to absorb water like the other forms of insulation. Additionally, when you use Foam it Green’s closed cell foam, you’re getting anti-mold protection because our formula is ASTM G-21 tested to not grow mold on it’s surface.

Plus, the rigidity of closed cell spray foam adds to the structural integrity of a home, which comes in handy for keeping a roof on. Straps are commonly used to keep a roof attached from wind uplift. But, what if air did not get up through the soffit vents in the first place? Foam it Green can help you create an unvented attic to protect against future high-wind situations. And, keeping your roof on is a good thing! Not just for reroofing costs, but from all the additional damage the home sustains when it is roofless in a heavy rain storm.

Minimizing damage is the most important thing and that’s why FEMA rates closed cell spray foam insulation as a flood-resistant material. In order for FEMA to consider a material to be flood-resistant, it must be able to withstand direct contact with floodwater for an extended period (72 hours) of time. Closed cell foam is the only form of insulation that can do this.

And, that reaches from your attic to your basement. Insulating your basement with closed cell foam helps your home reject water infiltration in the first place. And, the rigid insulation also keeps out mass water absorption, which can go a long way to reduce hurricane flooding damage.

So, if you’re home is in a hurricane or flooding zone, prepare with closed cell foam like Jeffrey H. “We have been very satisfied with your product in the past. Now using it to replace fiberglass insulation damaged by Harvey flooding. Thanks for the great, user friendly product.”

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foamguardian <![CDATA[Making Props with Foam it Green]]> https://sprayfoamkit.com/?p=2887 2016-05-12T16:11:20Z 2016-05-12T16:11:20Z Andrew D. Concord NC

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Andrew D.
Concord NC

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foamguardian <![CDATA[A Bungalow Testimonial]]> https://sprayfoamkit.com/?p=2884 2016-05-12T16:07:01Z 2016-05-12T16:07:01Z “My wife and I live in a 1924 bungalow home in Tulsa, Oklahoma. Our house has plaster and lathe wall construction with no insulation in the exterior walls. We are converting an old Summer Sleeping room which we used as our office into a master bathroom. The room was originally designed with 8 windows so […]

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“My wife and I live in a 1924 bungalow home in Tulsa, Oklahoma. Our house has plaster and lathe wall construction with no insulation in the exterior walls. We are converting an old Summer Sleeping room which we used as our office into a master bathroom. The room was originally designed with 8 windows so that sleeping there was more comfortable during hot Oklahoma summers before air conditioning in the 1920’s. Because of the room’s 3 exterior walls with many windows on a Southern exposure, it was consistently cool in the winter and hot in the summer.

As we are currently living in the house, tearing out the plaster and lathe to insulate and drywall was not an option due to the dust and mess. I was doing internet research and found the Foam It Slow Rise Foam to be the solution. We were very reluctant to actually do the Slow Rise Foam due to the cost and fear of it failing because we’ve never attempted this type of project. The cost of the project was $750 with the foam and probably very close in cost to a tear out and re-drywall, but allowed us to avoid huge mess and maintain the original integrity of the house’s construction.

We found the process to be much easier than expected. One of our big concerns was the speed at which the filling had to be completed due to the potential problem of having the foam harden between fills. That was not an issue at all. We even had 3 spare tips left over! The project went very quickly, had very easy cleanup (with proper prep) and seems to be very effective. The room no longer has cold spots as you move along the walls and is now a very even temperature throughout. Even with the large number of windows in the room, the overall temperature has improved several degrees. We can see how use of the Foam It Slow Rise Foam in a room with a smaller number of windows would have an even bigger impact.

As we repaint additional rooms in the house we plan to continue to add Foam It Slow Rise Foam to the walls throughout our home. Thanks for making a great product and for having a website that gives the information homeowners need to set this project up well to make it easy to complete.

Sincerely,

Michael & Jennifer K.
Tulsa, OK

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foamguardian <![CDATA[How To Insulate Your Van With Spray Foam]]> https://sprayfoamkit.com/?p=2880 2017-11-02T18:47:16Z 2016-05-12T16:01:33Z Most people think of insulating with regards to a home. But, customers often use Foam it Green spray foam insulation to insulate their commercial vans. In this video, watch as these folks use Foam it Green to insulate their Nissan Van from start to finish. It’s easy, fun, and can be done in a single […]

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How to Insulate Your Van With Spray Foam

Most people think of insulating with regards to a home. But, customers often use Foam it Green spray foam insulation to insulate their commercial vans.

In this video, watch as these folks use Foam it Green to insulate their Nissan Van from start to finish. It’s easy, fun, and can be done in a single afternoon.

This van will now keep it’s cargo cool in the summer and warm in the winter! Questions? Give us a call at 1-800-516-0949 or email us at help@guardianenergytech.com.

Project note: It is ideal to keep the van in the proper temperature range for 24 hours after spraying. This ensures the foam fully cures and bonds to the surface. Driving causes temperature changes, and if the foam isn’t fully cured, externally visible dimpling can occur in extreme cases.

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foamguardian <![CDATA[April Showers Bring May Flowers]]> https://sprayfoamkit.com/?p=2201 2016-04-29T16:08:26Z 2016-04-25T19:02:09Z This has been a cold and rainy April. If you have a basement that isn't properly insulated and sealed, you may find that you have a mold problem as a result of excess moisture through dampness and leaks.

Mold is a serious health hazard, so no matter what type of mold you may have, the problem needs to be fixed right away.

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wall with moldApril this year is a little colder than normal, but that hasn’t stopped the precipitation from falling. If your basement isn’t sealed, you may have dampness or leaks which makes this time of year annoying…and maybe health-hazardous depending on if your basement is breeding any of the 50 species of mold.

As always, mold is mold, they are all bad for your lungs, so don’t waste time testing it for what kind it is and just remediate it! There are plenty of products on the market that you can buy, or you can make a homemade one. Either way, avoid using bleach – certain molds react to the chlorine in the bleach and creates an invisible gas and can damage your lungs permanently.

Once you’ve gotten the mold out and can breathe free again, let’s get that basement sealed up. Foam it Green’s closed cell spray foam is a great way to get into all the cracks and crevices to create a tight air and moisture seal. Plus, our formula is the only one with an ASTM G-21 Anti Microbial additive so no mold will grow on the surface of the foam in addition to inside or behind it.

Basements are great Spring cleaning projects for the house – between basement walls, crawlspaces, and rim joists, you’ll be set for energy savings for years to come!

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foamguardian <![CDATA[Now is the Time to Seal Your Attic!]]> https://sprayfoamkit.com/?p=2197 2016-04-28T21:34:12Z 2016-04-25T18:44:19Z If you live in the southeast, now is the best time to knock out your attic insulation project - before the sweltering summer heat! Being in the attic in the heat of summer would not be fun, and unless you tackle the project, your wallet may take the hit in high energy bills. So, take a day and get in there this Spring and install your spray foam to have a comfortable summer!

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All About Attics!

If you’re in a Southern State, you need to get your attic insulating project done NOW – before the heat comes. You don’t want to be in your attic in the dog days of summer. It is dangerous for your health. And, you don’t want to blow it off again this year because your cooling bills will take a big bite out of your wallet all Summer long.

Spring is the perfect time to get in the attic, sweep away all the old junky insulation, and lay down a simple single layer of Foam it Green closed cell spray foam insulation on the floor of the attic. Once the tight air seal is in place, pile it high with whatever insulation you please to build up the R-value and enjoy a comfortable, money saving Summer.

If you’ve been toying with the idea of having a contractor do the work for you, make sure you vet them well. Too often, we’ve heard them recommend you do the underside of the roof with open cell foam.

This is often not what’s best for your home’s construction, but is the most common plan of action from spray foam contractors in Southern states because it is a larger bid, and less work.

One reason they say this is the way to go is that it will keep your attic cool. Unless you are hanging out in your attic, there’s no sense in paying to cool your attic. If your air handler is in the attic, it needs to breathe, and a sealed off attic doesn’t allow for that.

Plus, if you have bathroom or kitchen vents that dump into the attic from the house, all of that exhaust gets trapped up there, too.

Another common reason contractors claim open cell on the underside of the roof is best is because you’ll see if your roof leaks. If your roof leaks, by the time you’re seeing it through your spongy open cell foam, your whole roof may be damaged since sponge-like open cell hold water against the underside of the roof, and spreads it out. This is just like a dry kitchen sponge. It will first absorb moisture across and not leak out of the sponge until it is fully saturated.

So, why do many high pressure rig contractors pitch you on doing it this way?

Because it’s the fastest way for them to do the job, and the total square footage is higher under the roof than it is on the floor.

If they spray the underside of the roof deck, they don’t have to sweep the floor of the attic of all the old product. If that old insulation has moisture, pests, and maybe even mold- all of that gets trapped in the now sealed off attic. You don’t want that.

Also, be on the lookout for any contractors telling you that you don’t have to leave the house. The truth is, when using a high pressure spray foam rig, the entire home should be evacuated of all humans and pets that breathe air for 72 hours. That’s 3 days.

So, Southerners, please let Foam it Green help you do it once, do it right, and do it safely.

Do what’s right for the home – which is most likely the floor of the attic. Talk to our building science spray foam experts at 800-516-0949. We’ll walk through all the factors for your specific home to see whether the floor of the attic or the underside of the roofdeck is the best choice based on your home’s needs.

Do what’s right for your wallet – spraying the floor uses less foam because it’s less square footage than the underside of the roof. And, because you can do 1 inch to seal and fill the rest with cheap R-value, you save on having to pay for many inches of foam. You’re also paying less utilities because the total square footage you’re cooling is less when you cap the house at the ceiling of the living space instead of including the entire attic’s square footage.

And, do what’s right for your family’s health – low pressure spray foam kits like Foam It Green only have a 1 hr re-entry time for the area that’s being sprayed, meaning your family can stay home while you spray, and you can be back in the attic an hour after the spraying is complete.

We’re here to help – call us toll free at 800-516-0949. Just because we’re from Chicago doesn’t mean we can’t help your Southern home stay energy efficient and comfortable!

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foamguardian <![CDATA[Can Foam it Green be used to Insulate my Hot Tub?]]> https://sprayfoamkit.com/?p=443 2016-04-29T15:28:02Z 2016-03-09T21:45:00Z Everybody loves a hot tub - it's a great way to stay toasty and enjoy a cold winter's day. If you are like most spa owners, you may use a cover for your spa during the winter months, but the best way to keep it warm and toasty is to insulate around the bottom and sides. This will lower your operating costs dramatically.

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hot-tub-768x559During the winter, a hot tub is a great way to stay warm and have fun.

Most spa owners use a cover to help maintain water temperature. But, they often miss the importance of insulating the sides and bottoms of pools and tubs to help prevent heat loss. Studies have shown you can reduce your monthly operating costs by half with the use of a sufficiently insulated shell and a cover.

Sufficient insulation can be achieved by having a minimum 2″ thickness of medium density polyurethane foam on the shell. If the manufacturer has not provided at least 2″ of foam, FOAM IT GREEN® enables the installer, even the owner, to supplement existing foam to meet this minimum requirement.

Wrapping valves and fittings with kitchen plastic wrap and then applying the foam will allow you to access these fittings and valves if a repair is needed. The plastic wrap inhibits the adhesion of the foam to these specific parts, allowing you to cut the foam away, make the repair, and reapply the foam when the job is done.

Choose our closed cell, fire retardant formula for insulating your hot tub, pool, or spa.

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foamguardian <![CDATA[Can I Spray Foam it Green While My Furnace is On?]]> https://sprayfoamkit.com/?p=438 2016-04-28T21:38:32Z 2016-03-02T21:42:19Z It is crucial that no matter what the temperature, your furnace is turned OFF before you use spray foam insulation. Spray foam should never be used around a spark or open flame, so make sure the pilot light is off and stays off for a little while after you're done. Read further for specific instructions.

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We know it’s cold outside, but before you start spraying, please turn OFF your furnace.

Foam It Green should NOT be sprayed around open flame or sparks, so the safest thing to do is turn off the furnace or pilot light (if applicable) while you’re spraying and keep it off for at least an hour after you’re done (while you’re airing out the space).

If you’re heating the area with a portable heater, warm the surface up to the proper temperature (65-85 degrees F) and then shut the heater off while you spray.

If you need to reheat the surface or heat another area, wait until the room has aired out before turning the heater back on.

Lots of people insulate during the winter months, and it is safe and easy as long as you follow directions. Questions? Please email us at help@guardianenergytech.com and we would be glad to help.

 

 

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