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Spray Foam Insulation Kits FAQs

Technical Specifications Shipping Info
Download MSDS – Class 1 [PDF, 113KB]
Download Instructions [PDF, 149KB]

How to Buy FAQs

You will receive a hooded coverall, goggles, gloves, 10 fan spray tips, 3 nozzles, a coupon for your next order, and 24/7 support when you order over $250 today. Check Out our Current Promotions Page for other offers we’re running.
See our How To Buy Page. Use the square footage of the surfaces you’re going to spray, not the square footage of your house.
Ground shipping is FREE if it ships within the Continental US. Air freight, guaranteed delivery, or shipping to Hawaii, Alaska, or out of the US are additional costs. Call us toll-free at 1-800-516-0949.

Both the Large and Small kits come with 10 nozzles and 3 fan spray tips. You also get 3 more nozzles and 10 fan spray tips with Free Supersizing for a total of 13 each. This time 13 is your lucky number because this is usually plenty of nozzles and few people need to purchase more.

Every time you stop spraying for 30 seconds or more, you must change the nozzle. This keeps the foam from clogging the gun. If the gun becomes clogged, you’ll need to purchase a new one.

These kits contain everything you need to spray the foam. The pressurized nitrogen makes the foam come out of the tanks, so you don’t need an external power source. This makes Foam it Green spray foam kits so portable and disposable.
No, because most people do not have $50,000+ spray rigs and the licensing required for using them.
Absolutely! Unless you have A LOT of business already booked and are a marketing genius, you won’t want to invest $50,000+ into your spray foam rig. Build the demand, then get the supply.
Simply buy the right amount, ship it once, and use it properly. Don’t forget that using the kits well will save you lots on utilities next month and every month after.
All kits come complete with everything you need. Other than an extra gun, we do not sell the tanks separately.

There are several great ways to save money when you buy Foam it Green.

  • FREE Ground Shipping to the Continental US.
  • Comes with everything the user needs – lots of accessories.
  • Bulk pricing starts at 3 kits.

How to Use FAQs

Spraying foam is just like spraying on paint. It’s easy enough for anyone to do! Just follow the instructions that come with the kit for excellent results.
Spray on 1/3 of an inch wet closed cell foam and it will rise 3 times to cure at about 1 inch of foam. Kits are measured by 1 inch of cured foam, so 602 sq ft at 1 inch of cured foam, etc. If you need more than 1 inch, layer the passes. Let the 1st pass cure and then add the next coat.
The patch kits need to be used the same day. The bigger kits include full shutdown and reuse instructions. To stay in warranty, use a FIG 202/602 within a month after opening.

It depends on your project.

Floor of attic: Just one inch will seal the air flow from the living space to the attic. Follow with fiberglass or cellulose to build up the R-value.

Rim Joists: 2 to 3 inches. If you are sealing them in to make a finished basement, follow the guidelines below.

Walls: 2 to 3 inches.

Metal Buildings: 1 inch stops condensation.

The layer of foam helps the other insulations perform better by providing the tight air seal. If you want to do all spray foam insulation, you’ll be glad you did, because every additional inch maximizes the R-value for that space, requiring less and less energy to heat or cool your home.

Foam It Green is a Class III Vapor Retarder. Whether a Class III Vapor Retarder is classified as a Vapor Barrier in your area is determined by your local building code, based on climate zones. If your building code allows a Class III Vapor Retarder to be a Vapor Barrier, then, in your case, Foam It Green is a Vapor Barrier.
It depends on how many square feet you’re spraying and how thick you want the foam to be. Check out our How to Buy page to help you calculate what you need.

65-85 degrees Fahrenheit, 75 degrees is the ideal temperature for the surface you plan to spray.

The tanks also need to be between 65-85 degrees Fahrenheit for maximum performance. There is a temperature gauge on the B-tank that will show you when the tanks are in range.

It is best to use a fresh gun and hose assembly with every kit. One is provided with every kit. In a pinch, you could borrow from a recently used kit.
Throw them away once used. Foam it Green provides plenty with every kit so you don’t need to try to clean and reuse old ones.
Light green. If it’s not, STOP and ADJUST.
Depends on how you spray. To be safe, add 20% to your estimated needs.
Cover anything you don’t want foam on and move anything you don’t want foam on away from the spray zone. How messy the project is depends on the person using it. We provide you with a FREE hooded coverall, goggles, and gloves to protect your skin, eyes, and clothes.

Do you use the area for living space? If yes, do the rafters. If no, do the floor joists.

Absolutely. You want the spray foam to create the seal between the house and the attic. Sealing in fiberglass batt is a potential mold issue. It’s an extra step, but doing it right will save you money and time even in the short run.

This is a very common challenge that many people face. Many of our homes and buildings have no insulation at all. While this kept costs low for the builders, it means you now pay huge energy bills to make up for it.

When filling existing walls or ceilings, use Foam it Green Slow Rise Formula. Check out our video on how to maximize your results and minimize the risks.

Shop Slow Rise Formula Foam It Green >>

Absolutely, people do it all the time. One inch stops condensation and air seals the building. And yes, it sticks!
Absolutely. In fact, our gun is perfect for that. Pull the trigger back halfway to make sure you don’t create over spray. Don’t forget to wear your FREE hooded coverall and goggles to protect your eyes, skin, hair and clothes. Use the cone mixing nozzle only.
Plastic sheeting, oil, and surfaces that are either too slippery, dirty, wet, or not the right temperature. Try a test patch to ensure the foam is adhering properly.
It’s easy to paint it with whatever paint you wish. Even though Foam it Green is green, it is a light green, so it’s easy to paint over. If the cured foam will be exposed to UV rays, use a heavy coat of Elastomeric rubber roof coat paint.

Product Info FAQs

Our standard Fire-Retardant Formula is R-7 per inch.
Unopened, the shelf-life is 13 months. Once opened, use the patch kits the same day. The bigger kits include full shutdown and reuse instructions. It’s best to use a FIG 202/602 within a month after opening to stay in warranty.
A lifetime. It is truly a set-and-forget insulation. Because it won’t hold moisture, and is ASTM G21 mold resistant, and it doesn’t sag or settle, it won’t need to be replaced. It’ll stay until it is physically removed.
Follow the instructions and if the foam is not light green and dry to the touch within a few minutes, STOP and ADJUST.
Yes, once you’re done, you can take the tanks to your local steel recycling center, or to the landfill.
No, although we wish you could. Current Department of Transportation (DOT) regulations forbid refilling tanks.
The FIG 202 has 202 board feet of chemical (202 square feet at 1 inch thickness). The FIG 602 has 602 board feet of chemical (602 square feet at 1 inch thickness).
It’s a square foot at 1 inch thick of cured foam.
602 board feet because it consists of 2 boxes each weighing 60 lbs. If it were any larger, you’d be handling something very cumbersome, which would make it no longer a Do-It-Yourself kit.
Yes, this is closed cell spray foam. Our standard formula is >95% closed cell spray foam insulation and is ASTM E-84 Class 1 Fire Retardant.

Closed cell foam has significant advantages. Closed cell spray foam has approximately double the R-value in 1 inch of open celled foams. Closed Cell resists water and seals out air in just 1 inch. Just sealing out air leaks alone can lead to a dramatic savings in energy costs according to the U.S. Department of Energy.

Open cell foams hold water which can quickly lead to mold problems. Therefore, only use open cell in internal walls.

5-10 minutes. You can re-enter the room after one hour. Every single cell of the structure will be fully formed and bonded within 24 hours. Therefore, if you are spraying a mobile project, leave it to cure in the right temperature range for 24 hours.
Foam it Green is 100% Free of CFCs, Penta-BDEs, VOCs, and Urea Formaldehyde. It is fire retardant and mold resistant. It meets or exceeds building code requirements.
There is no off gassing from cured foam. It is an inert solid. Everyone can re-enter the room one hour after spraying is complete.

There are NO spray polyurethane foam brands that are “soy-based” or “bio-based”. It is illegal to claim as such.

Foam it Green spray foam kits are classified as green because:

  • Our spray foam stops tremendous amounts of energy waste by sealing out air leaks.
  • Foam it Green has a very high r-value (7) in just 1 inch.
  • Foam it Green minimizes transportation impact because it is 100% American Made.

Foam It Green® is not fire proof, but it is Class I fire retardant insulation.

“Class 1” foam means that the foam has been tested by Underwriter’s Laboratories (UL) for flame spread and smoke development, according to the ASTM E-84 tunnel test for surface burning characteristics.

When you use Foam it Green, you are using the product with the best success rate and the best gun in the business. You get 24/7 support, which means you have total scheduling freedom. And you get the no worry warranty that helps ensure you get a working kit.

Trouble Shooting FAQs

We strongly recommend that you do not dispense more than four inches of foam in one application. Allow each layer to cure, and add foam to the top of it. One layer of foam will bond completely to the next. Polyurethane foam generates heat as it cures. If too much foam is dispensed into a large cavity, the foam around the outside of the cavity will insulate the heat generated from the core of the cavity, and combustion could occur.

To caulk large gaps, simply run a bead of foam into the cavity.

Place the tip of the nozzle at the edge of the cavity and slowly pull the trigger. Remember that the foam will expand five or six times its original volume. If the foam cures, and you have not filled the cavity to your satisfaction, you can always add more foam. One layer will bond to the other. If you dispense too much foam, you can trim away the excess with a sharp knife.

Foam it Green makes that easy – if it’s light green and dry to the touch in 2 minutes, it’s good. Like any two component polyurethane foam, Foam it Green is dependent upon the gun dispensing both chemicals in a one-to-one ratio. If it’s not green and dry to the touch in 2 minutes, do the following:

Remove the nozzle from the gun and point the gun into a waste container. Pull the trigger and observe the chemical streams. You should see two chemical streams flowing at equal velocity.

The A component is yellow in color and the B component is blue in color.

Please check below to see what you should do:

  • Two chemical streams flowing at equal velocity
    – You are all set to start your project.
  • There’s more “A” chemical flowing than “B” chemical, your foam is probably darker in color and may have a crunchy, glassy surface.
    • First check the temperature strip – is the indicator in the blue area?
    • Cold chemicals will result in foam that is “A” component rich. If the temperature strip indicator is in the blue section, warm the tanks, shake them vigorously, and check the chemical flow again.
    • If the temperature strip indicates the mid-green section, meaning the temperature is right for dispensing, then check the “B” component tank. Be sure it is not empty. Be sure the valve is turned all the way on.
    • If all of these things seem to be right, contact us for further action.
  • There’s more “B” component than “A” component, your foam is probably bluer in color with a spongy surface texture
    • First check the temperature sensing strip – is it indicating in the red section?
    • Chemicals that are too warm often result in foam that is “B” component rich. Cool the tanks, then shake them vigorously, and check the chemical flow again.
    • If the temperature seems right, check the “A” component tank. Be sure that it is not empty. Be sure the valve is turned all the way on.
    • If all of these things seem to be right, contact us for further action.
  • If the foam seems to be rising but is blue, and reverts back to a liquid after a couple of minutes, this means you’re not spraying out any A component.
    We strongly recommend that the gun is dispensed a minimum of once every week, more often in humid climates. Failure to do so will result in a blockage on the “A” component side of the gun. The A component is essentially super glue – and can clog the sprayer if not maintained. If there is no chemical flow, the gun/hose assembly will need to be changed.
  • Neither component is flowing well
    If you do not seem to be getting acceptable flow from both components, this would indicate a lack of pressure.

    The only known cause for both tanks to lose pressure is if the kit was used while lying on its side.

    The chemical tanks are similar to aerosol cans. If you dispense foam while they are on their side, the propellant escapes through the hose and the pressure is lost. There is no remedy for this. You can only prevent this from happening by keeping the systems in their upright position during use.

The best way to avoid messes is to cover anything you don’t want foam on.

Cleanup of “B” component can be accomplished using soap and water. Make sure you get it while it is still in the liquid state.

Cleanup of “A” component is like cleaning up super glue. Do not use water to clean up the “A” component chemical. Be sure to wear nitril or butyl rubber gloves and proper respiratory equipment. For a small amount of chemical, saturate a rag with dish soap and wipe it up. Be sure to do this while the chemical is still liquid. Be aware that there may likely be a stain. For larger amounts of chemical, refer to the safety data sheet.

Store between 40 degrees and 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the boxes upright, and use the gun a minimum of once per week once opened (even more often in humid climates) to stream the chemicals into a waste bin. Failure to use the gun regularly results in an uneven discharge of chemicals.

If you store it at high temperatures, it reduces the shelf life. Pressurized containers may rupture if stored above 120°F.

If you store it at lower temperatures, the liquid components may separate.

Always store foam upright to prevent loss of foam pressure.

Lower temperatures will cause slower flow rates and a longer cure time. The mixing and spray pattern will be adversely affected. It will be darker in color and may have a crunchy, glassy surface texture. Warm the tanks, shake them vigorously, and check the chemical flow from the face of the gun.

Higher temperatures will cause faster flow rates, created by a higher pressure in the can. The yield and density of the foam may be affected in extreme conditions. Cool the tanks, shake them vigorously and check the chemical flow from the face of the gun.

Surfaces that are colder will result in reduced yield. This is caused by the cold surface extracting the heat from the exothermic reaction resulting in a reduced rise, thus a reduced yield.

Cold surfaces can also affect adhesion because the cold robs the heat from the chemical reaction. Using test patches, patience, and even a thermal scanner (around $50) can help your cold weather foaming go smoothly. By making sure that the foam really bonds to the surface, you create a seamless air barrier that protects your home for years to come.

If the surface is cold, there may also be condensation, which would be like spraying foam onto a wet surface. Therefore, the foam may not adhere to the surface. The only way to determine if this will happen is to do a test patch. If the foam sticks to the cold surface, spray the least thickness possible to simply raise the surface temperature to a level that would be closer to ideal temperatures. Allow that layer to cure. Then add the desired thickness to achieve your R-value.

If the surface is too cold you will hear a popping noise as the foam shrinks back.

Surfaces that are too warm may result in the foam curing too fast. This would also result in a reduced yield because the foam would not have enough time to reach the full rise before a tack free state. In addition, extreme cases may result in loss of adhesion because the foam would cure so fast it could not develop a bond to the surface before it hardened.

Wear goggles to protect your eyes. If foam gets in the eyes, flush eyes with water for 15 minutes and immediately consult a physician.

Wear rubber gloves to protect your skin. Use a coverall to protect your clothes. If you do get it on your skin, scrub repeatedly with soap (abrasive cleaner or pumice soap works best) and water. Apply hand cream if irritation develops, and consult a physician if it persists.

Questions? Call your U.S. Based Customer Support Team at 1-800-516-0949
Still have a question? Let us know so we can add it here. Plus you’ll get an email with the answer.

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